


Contrary to popular belief, there is no such thing as "Italian food." What you eat in all your favorite restaurants and cook up at home is really a collection of regional dishes, like the lasagna of Bologna, the creamy risotto of Milan, or the spaghetti with tomato sauce of Naples. Rome has its own cuisine, but you probably haven't had too much of it, since it has never really made its way to international kitchens. Even in the city itself, it's hard to come by as restaurants cater more and more to an increasingly diverse population demanding equally diverse food choices. Roman cooking is based on seasonal local ingredients like milk-fed lamb, artichokes from the sandy coastal plains, and fresh vegetables from the Campagna Romana farms. The food is simple, hearty, irresistibly aromatic and, thankfully, not yet extinct. Travestere still has many affordable and authentic Roman eateries despite its rapidly developing tourist trade. Affordable dining, in fact, can be found all over Rome.
Ristorante da Pancrazio serves some of the finest Roman food in the city in an archaeological setting. Risotto alla pescatora and saltimbocca, along with many other classic dishes, make the transition from ancient traditional peasant dinner to culinary renaissance chic. To perfectly complement your culinary time travel, Pompey's theater - lined with marble columns and bas-reliefs - is your banquet hall! Piazza del Biscione 92.
Myosotis, a fairly new, central Rome branch of a long-flourishing restaurant in the far-flung suburbs, lives up to its Latin name, "forget-me-not." The chefs prepare "grandma's best" recipes tweaked with the latest innovations and flavors to make a perfect blend of adventurous comfort food. Prawns are so fresh you could be dining on a shrimp boat and the frittura mista (mixed fish fry) is the best in town! Vicolo della Vaccarella 3-5.
Da Baffetto pizzeria isn't just a place to get a slice, it's a part of the culture. This packed little gem has everything you want in a "tourist-lite" kind of place - red-shirted unflappable waiters, noisy students, long group tables, outdoor tables, and a toppings list that leaves no doubt you're not in Kansas anymore. Try one of the most popular pizzas, the one that comes topped with artichokes and a soft runny egg in the center. Via del Governo Vecchio 114.
Relais Le Jardin has an atmosphere that could not be more romantic if Nat King Cole dropped by your table to sing "Unforgettable." A piano bar, white-lattice woodwork, rich colors, and masses of fresh flowers set the tone, and an ever-changing menu accommodates seasonal ingredients. Tucked into an art deco villa neighboring embassies and exclusive townhouses, its setting puts the finishing touch on your evening. Via G. de Notaris 5.
Before you sprinkle glitter in your hair and go dancing, or before you nestle into a velvet chair to soak in a harp concerto, take a stroll through the illuminated Ancient Rome. It's a goose-bump experience and also conveniently passes some time until the action gets going much later time than you're probably accustomed to. Later in the evening, party at a student-run rave in an abandoned fortress or have a pint at one of the newcomers to the Roman night sceneàthe Anglo-Saxon pub! If you visit in summer, there'll be lots of outdoor concerts and, year-round, there are countless local bands playing just about anywhere that serves a drink. For current happenings in English, look for the Wanted in Rome or Metropolitan mini-mags for jazz, rock, and other such listings.
The latest of the hippest, this future-shock, high-tech dance hall is deliberately bare-piped and metal-happy. Strobe lights and techno music spun by the best dance DJs feed the frenzy. Between sets, an emcee provides cabaret or comedy.
A god-send if you like music, like to dance, like a cocktail or two, but would never set foot in a room full of raving 20-somethings. This tea room and piano bar has a small dance room where you can sway peacefully to romantic melodies or get a little jiggy with more playful tunes.
The coolest places for 20-somethings to be seen these days, the centri are mostly run by politically active students to provide an alternative to the corporate, high glitz dance club scene and offer concerts, films, readings, avant-garde art exhibits, and, of course, parties. Roma C'e and Il Manifesto list the many centri and their activities.
The 18th-century vine-covered walls date from the time when this building was a sunken jail, but there's more than bread and water being served today. Dine on savory steaks and wine, with an original bean soup specialty of the house, but it's really all about the entertainment. Folk groups appear throughout the evening, the most popular singing old-time favorite Neopolitan tunes accompanied by guitars and harmonicas.
There are quite a few places to find large concerts or small performances, especially during summer. The city's various churches host a wide range of choral, chamber, and organ recitals, many of which are free! The Accademia di Santa Cecilia presents concerts by its own orchestra as well as visiting groups at Via dei Greci, and in summer at the Piazza del Campidoglio.
The Teatro dell'Opera is the focus of the November to May season, after which performances move outdoors to the Piazza di Siena in Villa Borghese park - a gorgeous location for the uniquely carnival-like atmosphere of these epic productions.
This ancient ceremony focuses around the blessing and shearing of two lambs. The wool is used to weave palliums, white woolen bands with pendants worn by a pope or archbishop. This practice is derived from the men of ancient Greece and Rome. January.
Welcomes spring with banks of flowers along the Spanish Steps and lovely performances of orchestral and choral concerts in Trinità dei Monti. April.
A sacrosanct time in Rome, when legions of the devout attend various events, the most notable of which is a procession led by the Pope through the ruins of Ancient Rome. The observances come to an end with a traditional torchlight parade. April.
This day is the focus of Holy Week, which bring pilgrims pouring in from all over Italy and the world. From the balcony of St Peter's Basilica, the Pope blesses his flock as the international media broadcast it worldwide. April.
The most important Catholic festival in Rome. June.
Trastevere, the most colorful and authentic quarter of Old Rome, fills with streams of people feasting on the savory food and drink served at tables lining every street. Mirth abounds as street musicians and assorted performers entertain. July.
Brings musicians in ancient costume to entertain friends, Romans, countrymen, and tourists during the harvest festival. Grapes are sold at grab-em-while-you-can discount prices. September.
The Holy Father imparts his blessing "Urbi et Orbi" (to the city and to the world) from the balcony of St Peter's Basilica with the same enormous attendance and world-wide media coverage as the Easter blessing. December 25.