Prague, Czech Republic

Eating out in Prague, Czech Republic

The influx of post-revolutionary tourism inevitably brought an explosion of restaurants - where once there was a culinary vacuum, restaurants now burst on the scene like the flowers blooming in spring. Expect to find mostly Continental European dishes and exotic, trendy cuisine like Greek and sushi in gorgeous settings such as beer gardens and riverside terraces with splendid views, vaulted gothic cellars, and even historical dining rooms with genuine furniture and frescos. Menus have 2 sets of entrées, ready-to-serve (hotova jidla) and cooked-to-order (minutky). The first are only available until 4:00pm and are generally traditional Czech dishes like pork or beef in heavy cream sauces served with dumplings (knedliky). Side dishes of rice, potatoes, or French fries are common and main dishes are usually garnished with obloha (cucumber, tomato, lettuce, cabbage or pickles). The more elegant cooked-to-order meals are available after 4:00pm and usually include the 3 national foods - vepro, knedlo, and zelo (pork, dumplings, cabbage), traditionally accompanied by one of the many excellent local beers.

Gourmet

V Zatisi was recently celebrated as Central and Eastern Europe's "Restaurant of the Year" by the Seagram Guide, and it is also a Michelin favorite. It has an intimate, casually elegant setting boasting excellent value and a marvelously attentive staff. It also has the best chocolate mousse in the Republic and the seasonal dishes are all savory creations like marinated salmon served with honeydew melon and vegetarian puff pastry pockets filled with eggplant, mushrooms, and spinach. Betlémské namesti, Liliova 1.

Highly Recommended

Bellevue, lauded by The New York Times as offering "an elegant atmosphere, excellent food, and knowledgeable wait staff..clearly at the forefront of the contemporary scene in Prague," is a natural choice for those accustomed to the finer things. It has a stunning view of Prague castle, a classic interior and flawless service. Classical piano accompanies your dinner throughout the week, and Sunday features Champagne Jazz Brunch and Dinner. Smetanovo nabrezi 18.

Local Flair

Kavarna Slavia is the legendary one-time hangout of dissidents and poets, where novels were written and revolutions plotted, often with the cloak-and-dagger accompaniment of secret police. The views of the Vltava River and Prague Castle are unbeatable and the crowd is an eclectic, appealing mix. The menu is light but complete. Narodni at Smetanovo nabrezi.

Romantic

Ponte, above Wenceslas Square, is a great place to escape the winter cold and year-round city bustle. Jazz combos play most nights while you are served a fusion of Italian and Continental fare by a roaring fire. Beyond the penne and pesto, you can opt for delicacies like black bean soup with bacon and fresh tomato, or a tangy spinach salad. Anglicka 15.

Going party in Prague, Czech Republic

It's all but impossible to visit Prague without hearing Mozart. Unlike the Viennese, Praguers gave The Marriage of Figaro a rapturous reception and commissioned not only Don Giovanni - dedicated to "the good people of Prague" - but others as well. Wolfgang Amadeus is an honorary son of the Czech Republic, but long before him, Bohemia produced many composers of its own. Chamber concerts regularly held in churches and palaces introduce you to their works. The theatre has also enjoyed notable popularity with Czechs, who even elected a playwright as president! Communist censorship helped shape Czech theatre into a clever form of subversion rich with double-entendre, under modernization since 1989. Pop culture also came into its own when the Velvet Revolution opened the floodgates of personal freedom and the city took the rock-n-roll plunge. The result is a nightlife thick with American influence, from raves to clubs playing everything from grunge to disco and soul. And then there are the cafés. Prague's grand old cafés still speak of the Golden Age when the National Revival was awakening the best dreams of Czech nationhood. Check the English Prague Post and Prague Guide for listings.

Municipal House

A flawless example of Czech art nouveau, this cream, verdigris, and brass jewel is built around the Smetana Hall, where the Prague Symphony Orchestra performs and, every year for over a half century, has kicked off the Prague Spring Festival. Listening to Smetana folk tunes under the ceiling mosaics of old Czech myths is a peak experience.

National Theatre

Completed during the late 19th-century National Revival, this gleaming neo-Renaissance building by the Vltava is cherished as a symbol of patriotism and cultural independence. The repertoire staples are opera, ballet, concerts, and classical drama.

Cafe Imperial

The elegant, ballroom-like atmosphere is set to a black-tie jazz theme. A recent restoration revealed a stunning setting with historical tiles and mosaics. Coffee is served with a complimentary pastry, the latte macchiato is excellent, and a complete menu is available.

U Hynku

Tucked into a scenic corner, this pub is a reprieve from the pricier tourist traps. Sipping a remarkably low-priced Staropramen at one of the chunky wooden tables, you might wonder how it managed so successfully to retain its authenticity. The beer is foamy, fresh, and cool, and the customers are mostly good-natured locals.

Roxy

You'll never hear a note of disco coming out of the Roxy. Here you get the best in techno, house, drum 'n' bass, jungle, and trance music. DJs imported from Berlin and London, bizarre cabaret menageries, a hidden tearoom, cutting-edge sound and light systems, a cratered dance floor, and a balcony bar create a funky, youth-groove atmosphere.

Casino Palais Savarin

This prettiest of casinos is housed in the rococo Sylva Tarouca Palace that once belonged to a leading family of the Austro-Hungarian empire. The interior is restored to its original splendor, where you'll play blackjack, punto banco, American roulette, and enjoy refreshments at the bar. The helpful and knowledgeable staff is happy to help beginners.

Common events in Prague, Czech Republic

Anniversary of Jan Palach's Death

In 1969, philosophy student Jan Palach immolated himself in Wenceslas Square as a protest against Soviet invasion. The 21-year-old died a few days later and became a hero for dissidents, who commemorate him annually at the Square and at Olsany Cemetery where he's buried. January 19.

Prague Spring Music Festival

This festival attracts big names and is so esteemed that even the President attends opening night ceremonies! Recent star appearances have included veterans like conductor Sir Charles Mackerras, soprano Dawn Upshaw, and the extraordinary young Russian violinist Maxim Vengerov, who played to ecstatic audiences. May - June.

Festival of the Five-Petaled Rose

Residents of Ceský Krumlov dress up in Renaissance costume and parade through the streets for this celebration of the summer solstice. Later, the streets become a living stage for open-air plays, concerts, chess games where people dress as the pieces, and more. June.

Karlovy Vary International Film Festival

This 10-day event was born before Communism came to the Czech Republic and is still going strong. In fact, it has regained its "A" rating from the international film festival governors and now ranks with Cannes and Venice, though it hasn't yet gained the star-power of its peers. July.

Prague Autumn International Music Festival

This festival features Czech orchestras, as well as international performers. Past guests have included the Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra. September.

Krivoklat Film Festival

This rebel festival is held at a Gothic fortress 27 miles west of Prague and categorically rejects commercial movies and even slick independents. What they show here is strictly gritty European experimental cinema, many with English subtitles or dubbing. September.

Mozart in Prague

The child genius that became the world's greatest composer is celebrated in the city he loved best during this month-long event. October.

Renaissance Days at Krivoklat Castle

Merchants, minstrels, and merrymakers fill the grounds of this Gothic relic that features so highly in Czech lore. The cold wind-blasts and blazing fall colors of the Berounka Valley add to the storybook setting of this 14th-century time-warp! October.

Anniversary of the Velvet Revolution

The clash between students and police on Narodni street on November 17, 1989 set off the chain of events that eventually brought down the Communist government. The president usually lays a wreath at the small bronze "Free Hands" monument hanging on a wall near Narodni 20. November 17.