Madrid, Spain

Eating out in Madrid, Spain

Without doubt, food is one of Spain's greatest attractions and is renowned as being among the best in the world for quality and variety. To be accurate, there is really no such thing as a national cuisine, rather it is a collection of regional traditions influenced by local climate and culture. Across the board, however, is the distinctive use of olive oil and many fruits and vegetables introduced by the Moors. The cuisine of the Central Plateau is the product of a harsh climate. Hardy legumes, sausage and pork feature highly on meseta menus, and many sweets like puff pastries and the ultimate treat, marzipan, come directly from Arabic traditions. Madrid contributes with the singularity of some of its typical dishes, such as cocido madrileño. This is a hearty stew for which the broth is served first, followed by the soup-meat, chick-peas, potatoes and greens. Also popular in the city are cod, callos (tripe), and sticky torrijas (sweet fritters). A recent emergence of first-class chefs has led to a reinterpretation of traditional recipes to appeal to modern tastes.

Gourmet

El Cenador del Prado welcomes diners into a Baroque salon and a plant-filled conservatory. The innovative menu has French and Asian flavorings, and showcases exotic Spanish recipes rarely found outside very traditional home kitchens. The house specialty is patatas a la importancia (sliced potatoes fried in a sauce of garlic, parsley, and clams). For dessert, try the typical bartolillos (custard-filled pastries). Calle del Prado 4.

Highly Recommended

Botín is called the world's oldest restaurant (1725) by The Guinness Book of Records, and Hemingway claimed it was the best. He may have been overstating things, but it is excellent, nonetheless, and attractive with tiles below and wood beams overhead. If you sit upstairs you'll see ovens dating back several centuries. Musicians stroll among the diners feasting on delicacies like cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and cordero asado (roast lamb). Legend has it that a young Goya washed dishes here. Cuchilleros 17, off Plaza Mayor.

Local Flair

La Bola Taberna is a Madrid institution and a bastion of the cocido madrileño for more than a century. The bar is original, and the restaurant still belongs to the founding family, with the seventh generation currently in training! Miraculously, little about this tasca (tavern) has changed since 1870, in either its appearance or in the traditional preparation of the staple stew containing pork, chorizo, blood sausage, vegetables, and cabbage. Calle de la Bola 1.

Romantic

El Amparo serves first-rate French-Basque cuisine and trendsetters are equally taken by what many consider to be the most romantic setting in the city. A glass ceiling lets you dine by moon and starlight on specialties that include bisque de marisco (seafood bisque) and mullet with wine sauce and leeks. Callejón de Puigcerdá, Bourbon Madrid.

Going party in Madrid, Spain

It's called la marcha by the Spaniards, and Madrileños who stay up all night enjoying it - easily till dawn - are nicknamed gatos (cats). The manic party scene of the 1980s has calmed down a bit (many say for the better), but this is still known as the nightlife capital of Europe. Spending lots of time socializing in tapas bars is the casually sophisticated favorite way to spend an evening. The bar districts are Santa Ana or Huertas for students and yuppies, Gran Via is mixed and touristy, Malasana caters to the rock crowd, Paseo del Prado is upmarket chic, and Chueca caters to the gay crowd. Madrid's creative scene has grown so much lately that artists and performers have come to the city in droves, adding another dimension to after-dark entertainment. Pick up a copy of the weekly Guía de Ocio or daily listings in the leading newspaper, El País.

Casa Patas

For "true" flamenco, this club is leagues above the more tourist-oriented spots around town. It's also a bar and restaurant, and the best proof of the quality of the dance here is that the flamenco singers and dancers regularly hang out here after hours. Shows start at midnight.

Alhambra

A jovial crowd has been reveling here with excellent wine, beer, and tapas since 1929. On any given night when the one-room tavern fills up at midnight, the crowd usually dances a la sevillana to traditional music. When they really get going, they jump right onto the wooden tables!.

Auditorio Nacional de Música

A glorious structure of Spanish granite, marble, and limestone capped with Iberian tiles, this hall is the home of both the National Orchestra of Spain and the National Chorus of Spain. Devoted exclusively to the performances of symphonic, choral, and chamber music, it regularly hosts the world's best performers.

Negra Tomasa

At this Cuban music bar, the international crowd drinks Mojitos (made from sugar, crushed limes, mint, crushed ice, and flavored rum) under palm fronds and fishnets while the house trio plays horns, maracas, and drums.

Las Noches de Cuple

Olga Ramos presents evenings of Spanish song, made ever the more charming by the strikingly attired (to say the least) octogenarian accompanist. They're an endearing institution.

Teatro de la Comedia

More than anywhere else in Madrid, this is where you're likely to see great performances of classic Spanish drama.

Common events in Madrid, Spain

ARCO (International Contemporary Art Fair)

This is one of the biggest events on Spain's cultural calendar, showcasing the best in contemporary art from galleries in Europe, the Americas, Australia, and Asia, which present the works of regional and internationally known artists. February.

Carnaval

The carnival gets under way with a big parade along the Paseo de la Castellana, culminating in a masked ball at the Círculo de Bellas Artes on the following night and ending with an evening concert in the Plaza Mayor. February.

Bullfights

Holy week kicks off the season for this traditional spectacle all over Spain, especially in Madrid and Seville. April.

Fiesta de San Isidro

Madrileños cut loose for this 10-day tribute to the city's patron saint. There are fairs, Castilian folkloric events, parades, parties, music, dances, bullfights, and still more! May.

Corpus Christi

Big processions, especially in cathedral cities like Toledo and Seville, mark this major holiday. June.

Veranos de la Villa

"The summer binge" of Madrid presents folk dancing, pop music, classical music, zarzuelas, and flamenco at various venues throughout the city. Open-air cinema is a popular feature in the Parque del Retiro. Most events are free. June - August.

Fiestas of Lavapiés and La Paloma

Thousands of people race through the narrow streets while apartment dwellers hurl buckets of cold water onto the crowds below to cool them off. Children's games, floats, music, flamenco, zarzuelas, and street fairs spread the fun. August.

Autumn Festival

Spanish and international artists participate in this cultural program of operatic, ballet, dance, music, and theatrical performances. This event is a premier attraction, yet ticket prices are quite reasonable. October - November.