Lyon, France

Eating out in Lyon, France

In the kingdom of good cooking, the "Culinary Capital of the World" reigns supreme with a centuries-old gastronomic tradition. Since the 16th century, Lyon's kitchens have indulged gourmands with "bouchon" bistros and fine restaurants serving tried-and-true palate-pleasers that retain their original flavors intact. The farms of Bresse and Charolais, the wild game of the Dombes, fish from the Savoy lakes, and fruits and vegetables of the Rhône Valley supply the essential ingredients. The local specialties are plentiful and varied, like pork dishes, cervelle de Canuts (soft cheese with herbs), bugnes (beignets), black pudding, and andouillette (chitterling sausage), paired with Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône wine. It was the mothers of Lyon, those famous robust cooks, who gave Lyonnais meals their very special character and who invented the 10:00am mâchon (snack). The celebrated chefs of today are mostly men who uphold the traditions of their ancestral mothers and carry the banner of Lyonnais cuisine throughout the world.

Gourmet

Les Muses is enviably set high above the stage of the Opéra de Lyon, guarded by the Muses that grace the façade. Only so grand a setting is worthy of the Hautes-Alpes cuisine typified by the perennial favorite, salmon in butter sauce with watercress mousse. Other dishes irresistible to gourmands are the scrumptious chicken in tarragon cream sauce and the matefaim, an ancestral dessert made of sweet pancakes. Reservations essential. Opéra de Lyon.

Highly Recommended

Léon de Lyon is the best of "cuisine Lyonnais." The executive chef and his impressively credentialed staff produce such delicacies as truffle flan, suckling pig with foie gras, and lamb with fava beans. The selection of desserts and cheeses is so extensive as to be overwhelming, and the service is subtle and perfect. The traditional decor of alcoves and wood paneling lends an added atmosphere of refinement. Reservations essential. 1 rue Pléney.

Local Flair

The Outdoor Markets are a great way to get acquainted with the "down home" cooking of Lyon, and are the perfect chance to mix and talk with residents. There are several streets hosting markets, and you might begin by strolling along the Quai St Antoine in the 2nd District, the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse in the 4th District, or the covered market at 102 Cours Lafayette in the 3rd District.

Romantic

Orsi is owned by celebrated chef Pierre Orsi, who has created a restaurant so lavish you nearly expect an Emperor might sweep in for a feast. Request a private lounge and do your own feasting amid marble floors, brocade drapes, gilt mirrors, candlelight, pink stucco walls, bronze nudes, and oil paintings. Try the foie gras ravioli with truffles - it's a hard act to follow, though the sliced figs with pistachio ice cream do a good job of it! 3 Pl Kléber.

Going party in Lyon, France

Lyon has everything you would expect of a sophisticated city when it comes to the after-dark good life, including a casino, nightclubs, cabarets, cafés, bars, and discos. At night you can find the liveliest districts in Vieux Lyon (Old Town), and along the banks of the Saône and the Presqu'île (Central Peninsula). If you prefer something more upscale, count on excellent performing arts including opera, dance, and theatre. There are always festivals in Lyons, and often you need do no more than step outside to catch the wave of street celebrations and party all night! Check the weekly guide, Lyon-Poche, for a list of all the cultural activities around town from bars and theatres, to classical concerts.

Opéra de Lyon

This 1990s Neo-Classical building was built to replace the 1831 hall, which was deteriorated beyond repair. Its outstanding architecture includes statues of the Muses gracing the façade, and the state-of-the-art sound and light system is a show all its own.

Café Theater

Lyon hosts 2 excellent venues serving distinctive meals while entertaining you with first-rate cabaret revues - the Café Théâtre de L'Accessoire and the Espace Gerson.

Bar de la Tour Rose

If you're looking for a quiet spot to rendezvous with a special someone, follow the local sweethearts to this favorite locale.

Bar Live

These days, this is where the cool drinking crowd hangs out, and the old Brotteaux train station setting is pretty cool itself.

Le Lyon Vert Casino

You can easily spend your whole evening, as many of the locals do, at this popular gaming hall. Start with drinks in the bar, head over to the gourmet restaurant, try your luck at roulette and blackjack or the slot machines, and wind up back to the bar for a nightcap. You'll have a great time without having to hop around all night.

Le Joker

The dancing youth of Lyon make up the majority of the crowd at this lively disco.

Common events in Lyon, France

Fête de la Musique

France's national day of music gets what seems like every last French citizen out of the home and into the streets to dance and enjoy countless stage acts that fill the valleys and cities with a festival of sound. Lyon showcases local bands on this day. June 21.

Bastille Day

All of France commemorates the French Revolution, which began on this day in 1789 when rebel mobs stormed the Bastille. The grand event includes fireworks, free concerts, and street festivities starting on the evening of the 13th with the Firemen's Ball. July 14.

Festival of Lights

This is the most popular event in Lyon, when residents celebrate the 1852 inaugural of the statue of the Virgin Mary on Fourvière Hill. Residents put lanterns on their balconies and windowsills, then fill the streets to admire the brilliant spectacle and enjoy a variety of performances throughout the many districts. December 8.

Festival de Musique du Vieux-Lyon

Various churches around the city host this celebration of classical and folkloric music. December.