Lisbon, Portugal

Eating out in Lisbon, Portugal

Seafood reigns supreme on the coast of Portugal and the wines are among the world's best. The tuna and sardines are unrivaled, but everything from the clams to the signature bacalhau (salt cod) is excellent. Acorn-fed pigs and lamb from inland farms are favorite meat dishes. A popular form of cooking is called cataplana, which involves a tightly sealed pan that allows the food to be steamed in its own juice. Bread soaked in those herb juices is a delicious treat called ensopados. Regional cheeses made from goat and sheep milk are varied and quite good, especially the Serra. Adding zest and freshness to heavy Portuguese meals are the many fruits that flourish in the Mediterranean climate, like melons, figs, strawberries, and citrus. The number of restaurants in the country exploded during the 1990s, and you no longer have to go to one of the traditional fine restaurants and spend a fortune to have a good meal. Many affordable eateries serve exceptional food at reasonable prices, and the Lisbon Tourism Restaurant Card gets you an added discount at participating establishments.

Gourmet

Conventual is ranked by its regulars - including the Prime Minister - as the finest restaurant in Lisbon. Set in a lovely square, it is decorated with panels from Baroque churches, religious statues, and objêts d'art. Many of the scrumptious recipes are the owner's personal creations, like the creamy coriander soup and partridge stewed in port wine. It'll be the peak dining experience of your visit. Reservations essential. Praça das Flores 45.

Highly Recommended

Pap'açorda is one of the most popular restaurants in the capital and certainly caters to its most colorful assortment of diners. The decor is of subdued elegance, but the cuisine is a showy sensation of updated Portuguese classics like grilled sea bass and, of course, açorda - a bread-based seafood stew flavored with cilantro. The Portuguese-only wine list is very good. Reservations essential. Rua da Atalaia 57, Bairro Alto.

Local Flair

Bonjardim is a very popular restaurant, especially for diners on a budget. The second floor is an air-conditioned, sunny room with rustic Portuguese decor. The first floor has an adjoining bar. Also known as the "Rei dos Frangos" ("King of Chickens"), this eatery specializes in superb spit-roasted chicken served with crispy fries and a salad. Other specialties include baked hake and pork fried with clams. Traversa de Santo Antão 11.

Romantic

Casa da Comida is a grand, former private residence that greets you with a flower-filled patio in summer and a blazing fire in winter. The imaginative French-Portuguese menu offers a variety of options, from lobster to pheasant to roast kid with herbs. The chef is dedicated to the quality of his ingredients and to keeping the menu surprising. The wine selection is excellent. Reservations required. Travessa de Amoreiras 1.

Going party in Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon's cultural scene is impressive enough to have earned it the title of Cultural Capital of Europe 1994. Pick and choose or try it all, from the soulful fado to world-beat street concerts, to world-class opera, ballet, dance, and theater, and the many flashy discos that stay open till sunrise. Where to start? With a fado club. These authentic Portuguese songs are expressions of sorrow and longing that have altered little in over 150 years. For a pulsing modern scene, head for the Bairro Alto, a historic center that has become a party-till-you-drop spot of all-night bars and dance clubs. Over 150 tascas, fado houses, bars, cafés, and restaurants crowd along the tangle of tiny streets overlooking the chic Chiado. Competition for the party crowd is growing fast in the newer "hipper" clubs of the reclaimed riverside around Avenida 24 de Julho. Opening time for most places is between 10:00pm and 11:00pm, and the hippest crowd doesn't show up until midnight! For a list of happenings, check out What's On in Lisbon or the free Agenda Cultural.

Parreirinha da Alfama

Possibly the best fado house today, the singers are of the highest quality; every fadista of the slightest renown seems to have sung on this stage. The singer usually starts with a few popular songs before settling into the serious performance of the classics. Excellent meals are served, though many people just have a few drinks.

A Severa

Excellent singers and savory meals are the key ingredients that have made this spot a fado favorite. Accompanied by traditional guitar and viola players, the fadistas alternate with folk dancers. Locals often join in and perk up the ambiance considerably, so much so that, before he became president, Richard Nixon got caught up in the emotion and led a conga line weaving around the tables!.

Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian

This major venue with three halls stages a variety of international performances of ballet, opera, and symphonic concerts. Every spring, the Fundação hosts the Early Music and Baroque Festival, held in churches and museums around Lisbon every spring.

Frágil

DJs spin the latest underground music to a chic crowd that includes many professional gay men from the journalism, design, art, and finance worlds. The dance floor is big and the decor changes every 6 months to keep the ambiance fresh.

Kapital

Celebrities rub elbows with cool factory workers at this egalitarian disco and bar by the docks of the Tagus. The music is loud, the people are danceaholics, and every night is a sure-fire great time.

Memorial Bar

An institution with the city's lesbian community that makes up about 60% of its clientele (the rest are gay men), this nightspot features live entertainment including comedy, cross-dressing sketches, and Portuguese musicians. Most of the staff and many of the regulars speak English.

Common events in Lisbon, Portugal

Carnival

Spectacular and colorful parades help celebrate this Portuguese Mardi Gras throughout the country. February.

Harbour and Music Festival

Nights are filled with concerts starring famous Portuguese artists and New Orleans music, including Blues, Cajun, and Jazz. February.

Holy Week

Parades of great splendor celebrate the deep importance of Christianity in the lives of the Portuguese. The most important event takes place on Good Friday. April.

Festival of St Anthony

The city honors its favorite son and patron saint with an impressive show of marchas (walking groups of singers and musicians) along the Avenida da Liberdade. The celebration includes music, dances, bonfires, lanterns, streamers, and more! June.

Bullfights in Campo Pequeño

Big names on the international bullfighting scene keep Lisbon high on their list of rounds, guaranteeing excitement throughout the season. May - September.

Oceans Festival

Three types of entertainment are presented at this festival - big shows and street parades, regattas and nautical parades, and a variety of marine exhibits. August.