


The finest dining in Scotland can be found in Edinburgh, with a huge selection of international dishes right beside the exotic regional foods. As in any UK city, Indian food abounds, as does French cuisine, and a surprising number of vegetarian restaurants. The best eats in the city, however, are Scottish fresh seafood, Aberdeen Angus steaks, and, of course Haggis! Haggis is sheep's offal, or pluck, or guts. Beef and oatmeal are mixed with the windpipe, lungs, heart, and liver of the sheep, which have already been boiled and minced. This is then wrapped inside the sheep's stomach, which is sewn closed. Yummy.
The Witchery by the Castle takes its name from nearby Castlehill, where hundreds of witches were executed 3 centuries ago. The flickering candles that surround the spooky interior cast an eerie glow over the gothic décor and Tarot cards that line the walls. The French/Scottish menu offers delicious Aberdeen Angus steak, salmon, lamb, and venison, rich desserts, and an excellent, 800-bottle wine list. Reservations are essential. 352 Castlehill, Royal Mile.
The Atrium is a perfect mix of eclectic decoration and excellent food. Flickering oil lamps, unique candelabra, cream cotton slipcovers for the chairs, a fabric ceiling, and moody sculpture set the mood. Head Chef Alan Maglieson keeps the menu varied, with Modern Scottish and French cuisine such as seared salmon, scallops with artichoke-and-crab salad, or risotto with artichokes making headlines. 10 Cambridge Street, Beneath Saltire Court.
Bann's Vegetarian Café sits in a pedestrian square near the Royal Mile and is open all day for coffee, snacks, and even vegetarian Haggis. Cool music, quality service, and really good food go well with the location - a perfect spot for outdoor lunch and watching the locals. 5 Hunter Square.
The Indian Cavalry Club takes you back to the Victorian Era, when the British influence in India was at its height. Besides classic and tandoori Indian dishes, there is also food from Nepal and Burma, all of which have been updated and specialized to meet vegetarian and health-conscious needs. The gazebo-style Club Tent downstairs serves lighter meals, and attire is fairly formal. 3 Atholl Place.
With tons of nightclubs and live music venues, theaters, casinos, and dances, visitors looking for a fun night out won't have any problem. Although Edinburgh is a huge city with over 400 pubs, the best are still the old neighborhood haunts that smell like tradition and remember everything. There are also a plethora of happening bars for the younger crowd, like the Irish bar Biddy Mulligan's in the Grassmarket and Jekyll and Hyde in the New Town. The List is a bi-weekly publication that describes the goings-on in Edinburgh and is available at hotel reception desks.
Perhaps the most famous bar in all of Edinburgh, this 19th-century watering hole has been a favorite of intellectuals and businessmen alike, especially writers from the Scottish Renaissance. Most prominent was Sydney Goodsir Smith, (known for constantly using obsolete Scottish vocabulary) who honored the bar in Carotid Cornucopius as "the only pub I know with an emergency entrance." .
Edinburgh suffers no lack of reputable theatres, from the Netherbow Arts Centre's modern drama and cabaret to the Traverse Theatre's interesting Scottish plays (and English-translated international plays). The Royal Lyceum features both traditional and contemporary works, with a restaurant and 4 bars.
Finding a traditional Scottish dance venue is not hard in Edinburgh, but one of the most popular is the Caley Ceilidh, run by Edinburgh's favorite and best brewery, the Caledonian. Several hotels in the area also provide Scottish evenings where anyone can try to "Strip the Willow" or dance the "Highland Barn Dance." The Edinburgh Thistle Hotel hosts "Jamie's Scottish Evening" and the Carlton Highland Hotel has Scottish music in the summer. Kilts, kilts, kilts!.
Although many casinos are private, memberships can be acquired with 24 hours, and any gaming room will have American and French roulette, poker, blackjack, and of course, slot machines. The Stakis Maybury Casino also features a highly recommended restaurant. The legal age to gamble is 18.
The Edinburgh branch of the most successful nightclub chain in Britain is laid-back but very slick, where all ages come to party and relax in the basement beneath strobe lights and surrounded by wall mosaics and artifacts from Marrakech. There is a large gay crowd on most nights.
Most of the week this joint has a regular neighborhood crowd, and every Tuesday people pack in for first-rate jazz or traditional Scottish music. One of the best little live music scenes in the area, the club also has a great bar and fun atmosphere.
All of Scotland celebrates the birthday of the most famous Scottish poet, "Robert "Rabbie" Burns, with huge feasts of traditional foods like Haggis (!), neeps (turnips), and tatties (potatoes). January 25.
The Edinburgh Folk Festival is held biannually, with the spring session highlighting jazz and rock, while the autumn festival is geared towards traditional music. Easter and November.
Shows, exhibitions, and workshops are set up for the 150,000 people who crowd into Edinburgh for the world's largest festival devoted to science and technology. The idea is to make science fun and interesting to people, especially kids. Easter.
The event of the year is actually a series of simultaneous festivals. The streets are mobbed with performers, and every public space is hired for all kinds of shows. Everyone finds something interesting from the Television Festival to the Book Festival, and the International Jazz and Blues Festival, all of which attract the biggest names. August.
Started in 1947 as an arena for peace in Europe after World War II, one of the most prestigious art events gathers the top artists in the world to perform opera, dance, theater, and poetry.
This is the biggest attraction in the International Festival, where the British Army's Scottish Regiment marches in front of Edinburgh castle. Bands, dancers, drill teams, gymnasts, and animals also perform.
The massive fireworks show is the de facto closing ceremony of the International Festival and takes place on the Castle ramparts.
Also launched in 1947, this festival premieres and rates movies with nearly the same prestige as Cannes.
Each year this festival breaks its own record for sheer magnitude. Six or seven completely different shows can be seen each day, including many experimental acts.
For 3 days at the end of each year, Edinburgh once again turns into a gigantic party, including the Royal Bank Street Party, superb fireworks across the city, and the ritual kissing of everyone in sight. The tradition is so old it predates Christianity, but is still growing each year. December 30 - January 1.