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Dublin, Ireland
Eating out in Dublin, Ireland
The people who run the restaurants of Dublin impart their own character to each place, which is what makes them all so charming. They will make a grand event of your arrival, then set about making your meal without any show at all, but putting every bit of their talent and care into the effort. The famous fare of Dublin like oysters and stout, coddle, soda bread, and Irish stew is benefiting from a revival as chefs discover a new pride and confidence in the goodness of their national cuisine. The supreme reign of the potato is vanquished and nowadays you can get everything from burgers to "boxty," gumbo to guacamole. Befitting of a European capital, there's plenty of Continental cuisine, with a particular leaning toward French and Italian influences across Old World dining halls, relaxing cafés, and hip bistros. The city also has a reputable selection of international cuisine from Scandinavia, the Mediterranean, China, Russian, and even exotic cooking from a strange alien place called California.
Gourmet
L'Ecrivain takes its name from the French word for "writer," dedicating its spirit to Ireland's literary scribes, many of whom had strong links with France. Owner-chef Derry Clarke's culinary passion and reputation are second to none, lauded by such distinguished food guides as Michelin, Bridestone, and Egon Ronay for his inventive use of the very freshest and best of Irish ingredients, as well as his extensive wine list, which is carefully chosen from a renowned vineyard. For an extra treat on a sunny day, request a table on the terrace garden. 109 Lower Baggot Street.
Highly Recommended
Cavistons Seafood Restaurant, though relatively young to the restaurant scene, quickly became a "must" on the dining circuit. Caviston's youth is greatly outweighed by the family's 50 years of experience with seafood, 2 top chefs, and a highly qualified, friendly staff. Critical acclaim has been heaped upon the family since 1966, when they served their first customer, and continues today for a menu that is selected daily by the head chef subject to the Irish fishing fleet's daily catch. 59 Glasthule Road, Sandycove.
Local Flair
The Brazen Head is world-famous as the oldest tavern in Ireland, having celebrated its 800th year in 1998. It was within its walls that the chiefs of the United Irishmen and Daniel O'Connel, the Great Emancipator, plotted the rebellion that led to Irish Independence. James Joyce spent time here and made two references to a "Brazen Head" in Ulysses. Today the pub is busy providing first-class food, drink, and traditional music. Dearly departed patrons are said to drop by now and again, gently haunting their oldàhaunts. 20 Lower Bridge Street.
Romantic
The Commons is nestled in the basement level of Newman House, the historic seat of Ireland's major university. The decor fuses Georgian architecture, cloister arches, and original contemporary art influenced by Joyce. In fine weather, seek out the secluded garden brimming over with lush plants and trees around the lovely stone courtyard. The menu is full of surprises as it changes daily, but you'll often see dishes such as confit of duck leg on a beetroot boxty and loin of rabbit with a stuffing of marinated prune. 86 St Stephen's Green.
Going party in Dublin, Ireland
Even if you aren't a drinker, you must visit an Irish pub (or two or three). The Irish public house is such a part of the national psyche, that some of the 900+ pubs even close their doors each night to a group of standing patrons singing the national anthem. But that's just the basics. With over half the population now under 25 years of age, the nightlife has finally started to catch up to the youth culture with hundreds of clubs sprouting up, though it still doesn't seem like enough. For more select entertainment, you needn't look very far. Theater is the dominant cultural art in Dublin, accompanied by opera, classical music, a budding comedy scene, and a handful of cinemas. Dublin performers are famous around the globe, from America to Asia, and from Riverdance to U2, there seems to be no end to the city's creative potential. For current shows, check out the Irish Times daily guide, the Evening Herald entertainment lists, and the Event Guide, a weekly free paper that lists music, cinema, theater, art shows, and dance clubs.
The Kitchen
Okay, so being owned by U2 helped get this club to the top, but it wouldn't stay there without the groove to back it up. Its success is due mostly to its open music policy, ranging from progressive house/techno to drum-n-bass. Musik Magazine declares that "The Kitchen is the best night club in the world at the moment." Many of its jams are webcast.
Traditional Irish Dance
Though "trad dance" isn't as popular in Dublin as it once was, there are still 2 stalwart venues regularly staging impromptu lineups. The Cultúrlann na hÉireann hosts popular large ceilidhs or communal dances, just like in the good old dancehall days, and O'Shea's Merchant hosts traditional music, songs, and set-dancing 7 nights a week.
Abbey Theatre
Its golden era, when founders WB Yeats and Lady Gregory sponsored the production of works by writers like Sean O'Casey and Yeats himself is passed, but the Abbey is still esteemed for its production of older Irish plays as well as its encouragement of young budding and experimental writers.
Comedy Clubs
Irish comedians' newfound success is due in large part to the higher profile given to the art by the new Murphy's Laughter Lounge, but acts are also found in many small bars. The best frequency and quality is found at the International Bar and the Ha'penny Bridge Inn. Additionally, big-name comics occasionally play the Olympia. Feel like trying out your own zingers? Show up on Ha'penny Bridge Inn's Battle of the Axe amateur night, or go to The Norseman pub in Temple Bar for open-mike evenings. Be forewarned - Dubliners show no mercy!.
Jurys Irish Cabaret
Ireland's longest-running show has been entertaining for more than 30 years with traditional Irish and international music, rousing ballads and Broadway classics, toe-tapping set dances, ballet, humorous monologues, and audience participation.
POD
The "Place of Dance" is run by John Reynolds, nephew of the former prime minister of Ireland, Albert Reynolds, and has won an award as "European Nightclub of the Year" as well as the European Design Award for its colorful Barcelona-inspired decor.
The George Bar and Nightclub
The first gay bar in Dublin now houses 2 bars. One is a quiet place to relax and chat, and the other is a lively hall with dance music and an after-hours nightclub, the Block, upstairs. The clientele is a comfortable mix of age groups.
Common events in Dublin, Ireland
Dublin Film Festival
Filmmakers and aficionados flock to this 10-day series of the best in world cinema, plus lectures and seminars on all aspects of filmmaking. February - March.
St Patrick's Day
Ireland's patron saint is celebrated in the most important cultural event of the year, with a parade in Dublin featuring guest bands from the United States and a festival of traditional Irish music, the Dublin Feis Ceoil. March 17.
Irish Grand National Race
Easter provides one of the biggest events of the racing calendar, the 2-day race at Fairyhouse, County Meath, about 12 miles from Dublin. April.
Budweiser Irish Derby
One of the richest and most exciting horse races in the world, the is run 30 miles from Dublin at the Curragh, headquarters of Irish racing. June.
Bloomsday
Dublin celebrates with readings and dramatizations of James Joyce's Ulysses, preceded by fancy-dress breakfasts and literary pilgrimages around the city. June 16.
Festival of Samhain
Samhain, "the end of summer," is a tradition rooted in the oldest Celtic Pagan heritage. The scary costumes and stories, along with treats for those who come calling, relate to the belief that when nature entered its season of death at the end of their year (October 31), the veil between the worlds of the living and the dead was at its thinnest point. This made it possible for spirits to roam freely in the land of the living and revisit their villages. Halloween, or All Hallow's Eve, evolved as a Christian effort to assimilate the pagans. October 31.
Dublin Theater Festival
This 2-week drama event hosts as many as 40 Irish and international productions. October.
St Stephen's Day
The traditional Wren Boys dress up in costume and sing for money in the street, but these days most of the proceeds go to charity. December 26.