Brussels, Belgium

Eating out in Brussels, Belgium

If you did nothing but eat during your visit to Brussels no one would blame you, least of all the Bruxellois who are passionate about their food. There are more Michel-star restaurants per capita in Brussels than anywhere else in the world, but you don't need to spend a great deal to eat well, and having a bad meal is actually somewhat impossible. Near the Grand Place are two streets that should be on your dining route, the Rue des Bouchers and its offspring, the Petiterue des Bouchers, which host a bunch of small ethnic eateries serving delectable specialties for next to nothing prices. If possible, splurge on at least one budget-breaking restaurant for a dining experience that will feed your spirit as well as your body. Traditional favorites like rabbit cooked in gueuze beer or steaming pots of Zeeland mussels feature on most upscale menus. For the local experience, grab a cone of fries dressed in mayonnaise from a friture (French fries stand), something of a cult activity in Belgium where the misnamed "French fries" were actually invented. Waffles are the other claim to culinary creation and chocolate, while not invented here, was most certainly perfected. As soon as you arrive, go to the tourist office and pick up a copy of their great dining directory Gourmet.

Gourmet

Bistro du Mail is Baroque restaurant owned by chef Pascal Devalkeneer, who learned to prepare stunningly delicious meals from top Belgian chef Roger Souveryns. Taste anything, like the turbot with Italian white truffles and puréed potatoes or the oxtail soup with celery and celery root, and you'll think the Michelin people must be dining at the next table, except they aren't - the food is always exquisite. 81 Rue du Mail.

Highly Recommended

Aux Armes de Bruxelles invented the local custom of presenting steamed mussels in individual casseroles and, according to competing chefs, offers the city's quintessential brasserie experience. Founded in the early 1920s, Aux Armes serves some of Brussels' most authentic Belgian cooking, like eel in green sauce, and waterzooi, a traditional chicken stew made with poached turbot, potatoes, carrots, leeks, and lots of cream. The room to the right of the entrance has chairs by Art Nouveau master Victor Horta. 13 Rue des Bouchers.

Local Flair

Le Pain Quotidien has branches all over Belgium and even in New York, but nothing compares to settling in with a newspaper and a soup-n-sandwich combo at the original. It was here that the idea was born to combine a bakery with an informal restaurant where strangers are tossed together at a single, huge, rustic wood table. Enjoy a simple but hearty and tasty meal taken to the rhythm of daily life in Brussels. 16 Rue Antoine Dansaert.

Romantic

Lola's is a trendy, yet romantic, hangout with a twinkling nighttime view of the leafy Place du Grand Sablon. The patrons are mostly a well-heeled fashion and art crowd who come to Lola's as much for the clean-cut atmosphere as for the food, which is a savory collection of inventive dishes like smoked-salmon and goat-cheese rolls, and duck with cabbage and caramelized onions. 33 Place du Grand Sablon.

Going party in Brussels, Belgium

Neighboring nightlife divas like Paris and Amsterdam make Brussels look like a bit of a wallflower, but it's a false first impression. True, the quantity doesn't equal that of its flashier counterparts, but the quality and diversity of after dark entertainment is just as impressive. Bars range from smoky pool halls, to party pubs, to gentlemen's cigar rooms. Café theater keeps stage acts on the scene year-round and the big-name theaters present renowned plays. Anything you want, you can find, like cabaret, dinner shows, nightclubs, ballet, opera, and symphony, in addition to things you may not have expected, like a traditional puppet theater. Live music of every style is big in Brussels, and finding it is just a matter of ducking into nearly any club you pass on a weekend night. By even the most objective opinion, Brussels has the best beer in the world. Try local favorites like the gueuze or fruit beers, or one of the "divine" Trappist beers made in an abbey. For current happenings, check out the Tourist Information office in the Town Hall, Grand Place, or buy the weekly English-language magazine The Bulletin.

Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie

This historic 17th-century theater is home to the superb Opéra National, l'Orchestre Symphonique, and the Rosas Ballet company. It's also the birthplace of Belgian independence. Agitated by the aria that begins "Amour sacré de la patrie" (Sacred love of your country), an 1830 audience rushed outside and rioted, instigating the brief and mostly bloodless revolution against the Dutch that established the Belgian nation.

Théâtre Toone VII

This last of the Toone puppet theaters, dating back to the early 1800s, is very likely the most popular theater in Brussels. Down the tiny alleyway called Impasse Schuddeveld, a small wooden sign marks the entrance to this old world show. Adaptations of such classic tales as The Three Musketeers and Hamlet are staged in many languages though the simplified action is easily followed on its own.

Fuse

This is the premier techno club of Belgium, practically a legend across Europe. It has a reputation for bringing in the best and most innovative DJs on the scene, who rate Fuse as one of their favorite clubs.

Conway's

This fun and noisy Irish bar, New York style, keeps Kilkenny and Guinness on tap along with a wide selection of whiskey and bourbon. There's a popular sports bar upstairs for rubgy and football, daily happy hour, ladies' night on Thursdays, and a staff that keeps the party going even in the slowest hours.

Goupil le Fol

This is a great place to try various fruit wines and listen to old French songs while you sit back sunken into one of the deep sofas.

La Fleur en Papier Doré

Ever since 1846, poets and writers have congregated in this 16th-century house. These days you can catch informal readings by young poets about once a month in this bistro that just flows over with authentic atmosphere and welcomes newcomers like regulars.

Common events in Brussels, Belgium

Antiques Fair

This traditional fair is highly regarded by European collectors for its selection of centuries-old everyday objects and prestigious masterpieces. Exotic pieces are represented through the primitive art and jewels of the Far East and the pre-Columbian Americas. February.

Fantasy, Thriller, and Sci-Fi Film Festival

One of the most original festivals in the world, this huge event attracts tens of thousands of fans to preview over 150 films of visionary directors. Genre actors and directors attend and greet fans. Other outrageous events include body-painting and the Vampire Ball. March.

Brussels Jazz Marathon

At least 350 musicians stage gigs and informal sessions in more than 50 clubs and pubs, plus leading jazz musicians perform outdoors in the Grand Place and Grand Sablon. One ticket gets you access to all events, plus free shuttles. May.

Ommegang

This parade is the grandest Belgium. It takes place at the prestigious Grand Place, ablaze with light and recalling the 16th-century pomp and ceremony honoring Charles V. Festivities are complete descendants of the nobility playing the roles of their ancestors in period costume. July.

Brussels Summer Festival

From the Palais des Beaux Arts to the Grand Place, the capital's most prestigious venues host concerts like the nightly "Music and Light" show and the event's first performance, the renowned free "La Monnaie/De Munt" concert in the Brussels Park. August.

A Visit to the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace, by tradition, opens to the public the day after the national holiday. Visit this imposing, art-filled building, commissioned by Leopold II, for a rare opportunity to stroll through a king's home. September.

International Independent Film Festival

Established in 1974 to showcase low budget productions, this festival is more than ever an incubator for innovative filmmakers. November.