Amsterdam, Holland

Eating out in Amsterdam, Holland

The word "cuisine" is one you probably wouldn't think to associate with Dutch cooking, given its bland stereotype. A collective Netherlands cry of "Foul!" is entirely in order, for nothing could be further from the truth. A combination of perennially open borders and centuries of exploration have shaped Holland's character as a true melting pot of ethnic diversity, and with that rich heritage came the diverse flavors of the world's kitchens to add their spices and innovations to the traditional Dutch fare. One of these is the celebrated Indonesian cuisine, which features a dish called Reischtaffel, a smorgasbord of Asian delicacies. Even the unwelcome Napoleonic Occupation had the positive effect of bringing the insuperable Gallic culinary talent to the Dutch dinner table. Local favorites include pannekoeken, which are thin crepe-like pancakes served with sweet or otherwise savory fillings, and erwtensoep, a thick pea soup with smoked sausage. Choose your setting from among elegant 17th-century dining rooms, intimate canal-side bistros, exuberant taverns, and exotic Indonesian rooms. The center of the dining and drinking establishment are the traditional Dutch bruine kroegjes (brown cafés) with their smoke-stained walls and friendly patrons. The newest additions are the grand cafés, modeled after those of Paris, Vienna, and Rome. Amsterdam's cuisine matches its personality - liberal, multiethnic, and adventurous, with a dash of good old-fashioned Dutch pragmatism and thrift.

Gourmet

Mangerie de Kersentuin is practically a meeting-house for traveling celebrities. Its bright cherry red and gleaming brass decor has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the residential street. Nothing short of excellence passes muster, so the utensils are Christofle silver-plate and the spirits are personally selected by the restauranteur. The original traditional French cuisine has evolved into an international showcase of regional recipes like lamb filet prepared with creamy salsifies, and coriander-scented vanilla sauce. Dijsselhofplantsoen 7 off Apollolaan.

Highly Recommended

De Oesterbar is the most popular fish restaurant in Amsterdam. For 50 years, its seafood has been delivered fresh twice daily to supply a menu chock-full of Dutch seafood delicacies. The decor is bright and delightful, with gleaming white tiles bordered by fish tanks all around the downstairs, and Victorian brocades paired with etched glass in the formal upstairs hall. Choices include sole Danoise with tiny Dutch shrimp and an assorted fish platter. Leidseplein 10.

Local Flair

Café Américain is a lofty dining room that has served as a sanctuary for the art nouveau set since its opening in 1900. Legend holds that Mata Hari, the infamous seductress and spy, held her wedding reception here. Leaded windows, tables strewn with newspapers, velvet upholstery, frosted authentic art deco chandeliers, and tall carved columns are all part of the dusky "come into my parlour" ambiance. Seafood specialties include salmon and king prawns, while meat specialties include rosé breast of duck with creamed potatoes. Sundays host great music and food with a popular jazz brunch. Leidsekade 97 at Leidseplein.

Romantic

La Rive overlooks the river and in summer opens onto a grassy terrace along the embankment. Two prestigious Michelin stars grace the reputation of this cozy room that feels something like a private den, with its cherry-paneled walls, brass objêts, and tall bookcases. Along one wall is a row of private booths with a view through the tall French windows toward the water. Typical specialties include grill-roasted rack of lamb with dates and Zaanse mustard. The service and wine cellar reflect the finest French traditions. Professor Tulpplein 1 off Weesperstraat.

Going party in Amsterdam, Holland

Nightlife can be considered the life in Amsterdam, which is well-known for its casual party and bar scene. The traditional bruine kroeg, the brown cafés, have never been better, and the new kids on the block, the grand cafés, have become very popular with the young hip crowd for their see-and-be-seen scene and chic settings. If you feel like a "decaf" with a dusting of nutmeg, don't wander into a coffee shop! These are actually cannabis cafés, so you should head for a tea room, instead. Amsterdam's world-famous tolerance has generated one of the biggest gay scenes in Europe, with excellent bars and clubs catering to the group. Live musical performances are frequent and varied, regularly featuring rock, jazz, and Latin bands all around the city's bars and clubs, which are fun and energetic without being frenetic. Cabaret and theater shows along the canal are often in English and always entertaining. For high culture, the Concertgebouw assures Amsterdam its share of refinement, regularly hosting symphony orchestras in addition to excellent dance and opera. A fun night on the town really isn't expensive, unless you never stray from the tourist strip. For the best current information, head for the Amsterdam Uitburo (AUB) in the Stadsschouwburg, where you can pick up the free bimonthly Pop and Jazz Uitlijst. For film and music, get the Week Agenda, or the alternative Queer Fish.

Sinners in Heaven

No, you didn't accidentally wander into an SandM lair, this is just part of the decor at this discotheque that's popular with the cream of the Dutch film, theater, and TV crowd. Three floors are designed with Gothic shock intent, mixing SandM with church and castle themes. Every second Sunday, the music changes to RandB, hip hop, and swing.

Lido

Vegas comes to Holland via this showy casino club. Dinner cabarets entertain high and low-stakes gamers, and pre-show dinners are all excellent.

Carré

This lavish theater on the banks of the River Amstel was once a circus, but today in place of dancing elephants and ringmasters, you find prancing ballerinas and booming baritones. In addition to ballet and opera, Dutch-language productions of the top Broadway and London musicals like Les Misérables and Evita have been on the bill. Top rock and pop bands also perform here, though nowadays they tend to prefer the new Amsterdam ArenA.

The Concertgebouw

This is one of the world's most acoustically perfect concert halls, producing a distinctly rich tone. It is home to the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, and hosts internationally acclaimed orchestras, ensembles, conductors, and soloists. Lines of sight are splendid from every seat, and if you plan far enough ahead you can even get seats on stage! Free lunchtime concerts, usually chamber music and symphonies, are frequent.

Hoppe

Without having meant to, the Hoppe turned into quite the tourist attraction, but locals also love this place and often stop for a drink on their way home. Be prepared to stand, because no one seems to be able to remember the last time they actually saw an empty seat. Don't let that deter you from going, though, it's worth standing for, and has been since 1670.

't Smalle

Cozy and crowded, this might be your best choice for an authentic brown café experience. Pieter Hoppe opened the place in 1786 as a liquor distillery and proeflokaal (the ubiquitous tasting houses). This bruine kroeg has expanded its service to the water's edge, with a fine terrace on the Egelantiersgracht, and even onto the water itself, on a boat moored alongside.

Common events in Amsterdam, Holland

Carnival

See Amsterdam on the wild side! It isn't exactly wild along the lines of Rio or New Orleans, but it's a pretty good showing of dancing and partying till you drop. February.

Queen's Day

This nationwide holiday for the House of Orange is celebrated with verve, and the city center fills up so tightly with celebrating throngs that it actually becomes difficult to move. A street market throughout the city hosts an enormous number of stalls. Faces, hair, clothing, buildings, in fact virtually all surfaces, are decorated in orange. Street music and theater boost the revelry on this highly festive and boisterous day. April.

World War II Memorial Day

The entire country falls respectfully silent for two minutes at 8:00pm to honor the victims of World War II, with many of the citizens walking outdoors for the event. The rest of the day is marked by various nation-wide exhibits, ceremonies, and other assorted commemorations. May.

Floating Amsterdam

The lower reaches of the Amstel River are transformed into an outdoor theater for two weeks, hosting a variety of performing arts shows and concerts. May.

Holland Festival

Each year, Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam, and Utrecht join together in presenting a cultural banquet of music, opera, theater, film, and dance. All the major Dutch companies, as well as visiting troupes and soloists from around the world, participate. June.

Over Het IJ Festival

Aimed at the alternative crowd, this avant-garde theater, music, and dance event takes place beside the water on an old wharf. June - July.

Arts Adventure

This cultural shoulder season for tourists includes more offbeat and informal events across the spectrum of performing arts than you will find in the official season. July - August.

Festival of Early Music

Marvelous concerts celebrating music from the Middle Ages through the Romantic Age fill the air with melodies for 3 days. August - September.

Cultural Season Preview

Free performances at impromptu outdoor venues as well as theaters and concert halls host both professional and amateur groups. The shows include music, opera, dance, theater, and cabaret. August.

Aalsmeer Flower Parade

For nearly half a century, Amsterdam has been the final destination for a flower parade that features a many floats carrying a variety of flowers (which in fall doesn't include tulips). The parade follows a traditional route ending at Dam Square. September.

Open Monumentendag

Historical buildings and monuments that are usually not open to the public welcome visitors during this special open-house, free of charge to boot! September.

Spiegelkwartier Open House

Spiegel Quarter, Amsterdam's famous art and antiques neighborhood, welcomes visitors for a special series of exhibits throughout its many galleries and shops. November.